FAQ

TWIN ROW Bearing Carrier installation instructions:

This twin row bearing system is the first step to combating bearing failure. In ATV recreational riding today, the demand put upon original drive components is unbelievable. RPM’s replacement components are designed to take the punishment.Your bearing housing should last many years of riding if you take proper care of it. This bearing housing uses sealed bearings. When you install your new RPM bearing carrier do not over-tighten the axle lock nut (over-tightening can collapse the center spacer tube). Once you have snugged up the axle locknut, loctite the jam nut area and then tighten the jam nut (if applicable). If you are using an RPM anti-fade or other type of axle lock nut, follow the manufacturer’s instructions provided with that product. Because jam nuts and some locknuts are prone to coming loose, RPM recommends that you inspect them frequently to be sure they remain tight.AVOID PRESSURE WASHING THE BEARING HOUSING AREA!!! Pressure washing may force water past the outer seals and into the bearings causing rust and premature bearing failure. Check bearings periodically for smooth operation, if they make a grinding noise or if you notice that they seem to feel rough when rotating them by hand then replace them immediately. Do not ride on damaged bearings. If your bearings fail they may destroy the carrier housing, axle, brake hub and sprocket hub. Replacement bearings and seals are available directly from RPM. If you have any technical questions, please do not hesitate to call or write, contact info is listed above.

TAPERED Bearing Carrier Installation Instructions:

Congratulations on your choice of the RPM Tapered Bearing Carrier.  With proper maintenance of the bearings, seals, grease and pre-load adjustments, this carrier will outlast the quad you install it on.  

The Tapered Carrier bearings are packed with grease at the factory. RPM recommends that you completely fill the center cavity of the carrier with high quality synthetic grease  after installation.  This will ensure the bearings have enough lubrication, as well as helping to keep moisture and debris out.  AVOID PRESSURE WASHING THE BEARING HOUSING AREA!!!  Pressure washing may force water past the outer seals and into the bearings causing rust and premature bearing failure. We STRONGLY suggest cleaning, inspecting and re-packing your bearings regularly. Replacing your seals before they wear out will also add to bearing longevity.

We have added a zerk fitting to fill the carrier with grease.  If you do not have an opening in your swing arm to access the grease zerk you may drill one if so desired.  If there is no way to grease the carrier with it installed in the swing arm; RPM recommends that you install the axle into carrier with the sprocket hub installed, then slide the carrier out of the swing arm enough to access the zerk fitting and fill the carrier so that new grease is present at the seal for the brake hub.  Then insert the carrier into the swing arm and install the brake caliper bracket, brake hub & locknut.  This procedure will not work with axles that have pressed on brake hubs such as the Suzuki LTZ 400.  In this case we recommend that an access hole be drilled in a lower, centered, non-structural location to avoid weakening the integrity of your swing arm.

To obtain the proper pre-load adjustment for the tapered bearings: seat the seal surfaces of the sprocket and brake hubs into the seals and against the bearing race by hand.  While slowly rotating the axle, tighten the axle locknut hand tight plus ¼ turn more then back the locknut off until the axle just begins to have play.  Next, tighten the locknut just enough to eliminate all side play. This should also eliminate any up and down play. The axle should spin freely with only a slight drag from the seals. Secure your locknut in this position.  Test ride the quad approximately one mile to seat the bearings.  Immediately after the test ride carefully feel the carrier for heat, if it’s warm or hot it’s too tight. Loosen the locknut and readjust. Test ride and recheck.    

Repair parts, bearings, seals, rebuild kits, and grease are available from RPM.  Please call 928-771-9363 for more information.

    Make sure the large anti-fade nut is threaded all the way on to the hub, in the fully closed or collapsed position. Remove the brake disc and the original brake hub from the axle. Re-install the disc on the new anti-fade brake hub with the original mounting bolts. For applications with pressed in bolts (i.e, Honda 300EX), use the included hardware to mount the brake disc. We recommend  using some form of loc-tite or thread locker on these bolts. Clean and inspect the grease seal on the bearing carrier and replace, if necessary. Smear a small amount of grease on the outside of the seal surface of  the anti-fade before sliding it on to the axle (seal surface side first) over the splines and into the bearing carrier. Next, slide the included lock ring on to the axle and into the groove next to the anti-fade.

        Turn the large, beveled nut portion of the anti-fade counter-clockwise until it meets the lock ring on the axle and hand tighten it just enough to eliminate any lateral axle movement or slop. Do Not Over Tighten Or Serious Bearing Damage Can Occur!!! This is especially important if you have tapered bearings. If so, refer to the bearing carrier manufacturer's instructions. The enclosed tool can be used to help but is actually intended for the removal, not the installation.

       Next, locate the 6mm socket head pinch bolt on the side of the nut. The slotted area that pinches together should be sealed with a little silicone sealant prior to tightening the pinch bolt to prevent dirt and debris from getting inside the anti-fade and on the internal threads. Finally, tighten the pinch bolt. After a short initial ride, check the axle again for any play and, if necessary, loosen the pinch bolt and re-adjust the anti-fade.

       ***Please note that the internal threads of this anti-fade come pre-lubricated with anti-seize compound from RPM. We recommend that this anti-seize be cleaned from the threads and new anti-seize reapplied any time the anti-fade is disassembled after use. Also, don’t forget to re-seal the slotted area with silicone sealant.***

RPM Cyclone Front Wheel Hubs have tapered bearings allowing the front wheel to take increased side load into corners.  A ball bearing system is designed for the up-down or axial load, but when executing a turn, the side load forces the ball bearing off track and eventually they wear out and seize or blow up.  On typical OEM installations the load exerted on the bearings is not evenly shared from the inside to outside ball bearing so only one bearing is taking the full force of the load, pushing the working ball bearing off track and increasing the threat of blowing or seizing a bearing.  Since tapered bearings rest in a race, at an angle opposing the angle of the opposite bearing and race, they are designed to evenly distribute the load between the bearings resulting in a much stronger product.

The RPM Cyclone tapered bearing system also allows the hub to spin easier on the spindle and gives you the ability to adjust the bearings, robbing less horse power than worn ball bearings.   These hubs are CNC machined from 6061 billet aluminum, come with bearings, seals, bullet style speed studs, nyloc lug nuts, and are fully serviceable. These hubs are upgraded for 8 mm bolts (stock is 6 mm on TRX250R and 8 mm on 400EX and LTR450).  8 mm bolts not included.

To install: Remove your stock hubs according to OEM service procedures.  Clean spindles and make sure the area is free of dirt and/or damage.  Remove the seal surface spacers/bushings from original wheel hubs as they will be reinstalled with your new Cyclone Hubs. (TRX 250R/400EX only; use the bushings that are supplied with the Cyclone Wheel Hubs for correct outer bearing spacing).   Install brake rotors on new hubs with OEM hardware (TRX 250R must be used with late model 3 bolt rotors & 8mm mounting bolts) and install the hubs onto the spindles in the same position as the stock hubs including the seal surface/spacer bushings.  Tighten the spindle nut just tight enough to remove side play.   CAUTION:  DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE SPINDLE NUT!!!     Cyclone Hubs can be used with or without the RPM billet hub caps, which include an o-ring seal.  If used without hubcaps an outer seal (available from rpm) must be installed to protect bearings from debris.   Please double check that the bearings have plenty of clean grease (they are pre-greased from the factory).  RPM recommends cleaning and hand packing your bearings every 100 hours or as needed using a high quality synthetic wheel bearing grease. 

Cyclone Wheel Hub parts, accessories, grease, and rebuild kits, are available from RPM.  Please call for info or to place your order.

Answer :

Under this Warranty, we will either repair or replace the axle (at our option) at NO CHARGE for as long as you own your axle. BEWARE: Other axle manufacturers will replace a broken axle once for free, but then charge nearly $200 PER REPLACEMENT thereafter - not RPM! No doubt about it - we have the best warranty available anywhere in the industry.

Answer :

Our axle warranty card is a contract between the original purchaser and RPM. If the buyer follows the warranty cards instructions completely in the time frame stated then RPM is bound by the promises. They are very easy to follow and understand. If the buyer chooses not to follow the instructions to register their axle, then RPM is not bound to the offered warranty. Therefor the axle replacement will be declined.

Answer :

Write your name and phone number in the center of the axle near the etched serial number in permanent marker. Include a copy of your warranty card if available. Include current contact information. Send it to: RPM, 2600 Melville Road, Prescott, AZ 86301. You will be responsible for all shipping charges to and from RPM.

Answer :

No, if we straighten your axle, it will not be weakened any further. However, there are rare cases where an axle will break if we try and straigthen it. If this happens, you will receive a new axle as long as it was registered and fulfills all the warranty guidelines. If not, the axle was not salvageable and will not be replaced.

Answer :

Yes, it is $45 to straighten one end or $80 for both. All shipping charges to and from RPM are the customer's responsibility.

Answer :

It takes 3-5 days to process and repair your bent axle. In situations where time is an issue please let us know and we will do what we can to rush your order.

Answer :

On your Warranty Registration card there is one half intended to be sent in and one half for your records. The half intended to be sent in to RPM for registration contains a fourth set of numbers/letters. Example: XXX-XXXX-XXX-XXXX

Answer :

RPM offers an upgrade to the Standard Sprocket Hub, we call it our race hub. The Race Hub is made out 7075 Aluminum and is slightly thicker plus has shoulder to mount a sprocket guard. It is intended for high performance engines to endure race conditions and will typically last several seasons.
The RPM Standard Sprocket Hub is CNC machined from aircraft quality billet 6061 T-6 aluminum.
Both Sprocket Hubs have a Seal Surface that's made of Steel which is heat treated and nickle plated.

Answer :

Yes we can ship your order internationally. International orders cannot be placed on our website but you can contact RPM via phone or email to place your order.